It's almost over and it seemed like it just started! I get this feeling every year, but this year the summer really does seem shorter than usual- just this week and next and it's nose to the grindstone time again. Retirement is not an option at present.
I have 2 more projects to finish - cleaning out the elephants graveyard of tote bags known as the hall closet. I am sure I can find homes for said bags on freecycle.
The other is sorting out the Amazon / Half.com book inventory and culling the dogs. If I ever finish that job I will then attempt to do the same with the E-Bay books.
My Beloved shocked me on our recent trip by reading a book cover to cover. In that way we are an odd couple, since I am never without a book, if not two or three. I picked a copy of A Nasty Bit of Rough by David Feherty at a thrift shop since it was about golf and she loved it. I found myself saying "stop reading your book and lets go to bed". She liked it so much that she had me order his other book for her.
That was a first - that's normally her line!
Wednesday, July 21, 2004
Tuesday, July 20, 2004
Finished!
Spent most of today sprucing up my trip blog, adding pictures and web links and it's now finished! Or as finished as it will ever be. My Beloved read it (she liked it!) but wishes to announce to the world that she does not nap as much as one might think reading said blog. She does grudgingly admit that she is high maintaince. :-) We spent the evening working on a memory book to send to everyone who gave us hospitality while in Holland. She chose the pictures, I wrote the captions and the end result is very nice indeed. It came compliments of her 550+ digital pictures and Snapfish.com.
As always my summer is slipping away much faster than I would like.
As always my summer is slipping away much faster than I would like.
Monday, July 19, 2004
Back to Reality
Back to the laundry, the cat pans, the dishes, the grocery store, the gym and the errands - on other words, back to the REAL WORLD, after 3 weeks in a dream world. I really did want to stay in the latter! However, baring a lottery win this isn't likely to happen. The cats on the other hand are very happy to have us home, though they were well taken care of.
Rambled through a few thrift shops in my toing & froing - found some books that might have potential. I started up E-Bay again, after a 6 weeks break. I hope business is better than it has been, I have books that need to move and college bills that need to be paid.
Musing thought of the day- where did all these people in People Magazine come from? I've never heard of most of them. Is this one of the first symptoms of getting old?
Rambled through a few thrift shops in my toing & froing - found some books that might have potential. I started up E-Bay again, after a 6 weeks break. I hope business is better than it has been, I have books that need to move and college bills that need to be paid.
Musing thought of the day- where did all these people in People Magazine come from? I've never heard of most of them. Is this one of the first symptoms of getting old?
A Travel Sort of Day
We had a 2:30 flight so I had one final adventure in Amsterdam - I went to a weekly Book Sellers flea market on Spui Square. About 30 vendors, set up in tents. Didn't buy anything - mostly due to the prices, which were fair but more than I wanted to pay. There was a lovely selection of children's books, however they were all in Dutch and I don't know anything about Dutch Children's literature. Most of the sellers specialized in one thing or another - lots of navel books or biographies. The selection included a surprisingly large number of English titles.
Trip home was long but uneventful. Planes were where they were supposed to be and took off when they were supposed to and no flights were canceled. For that we were very grateful. The line at customs was VERY long - George Bush did not win many friends nor influence many people. The contractors who were coming back from Iraq for 2 weeks of R&R were very vocal in their displeasure.
Trip home was long but uneventful. Planes were where they were supposed to be and took off when they were supposed to and no flights were canceled. For that we were very grateful. The line at customs was VERY long - George Bush did not win many friends nor influence many people. The contractors who were coming back from Iraq for 2 weeks of R&R were very vocal in their displeasure.
Thursday, July 15, 2004
Last Sort of Day
Book Sellers on Spui Square
Today was wear the shoe leather off our feet dayand our last full day in Amsterdam. We walked all the way to the WWII Dutch Resistance Museum, which is about 3 "zones" from the part of the city we are staying at. Of course, distances are all relative, and compared to Houston, this is a very compact city but it was still a bit of a trek. Made a stop at the flea market on Waterlooplein - this one I gather has been there for decades, if not centuries. Like so many modern day flea markets, it's not longer a thrift shoppers paradise, most of the vendors were selling new goods. Hundreds of T-shirts, caps, belts, bags and ugly made in far East at slave labor wages jewelry. You wouldn't not have known that you were in Holland, but for the fact the T-shirts all had Dutch themes. In Houston it would be cowboys and at the flea market in Paris it would be the Eiffel tower.
The War Resistance museum was fascinating, a very slick, multimedia presentation of what it was like in Holland during the Nazi Occupation. Blessedly the information placards were in Dutch and English. However, there were many original letters and scrapbooks, which were only in Dutch. Note to self - must learn to read Dutch!
I so wished that my Father was still alive, he lived through the occupation and perhaps the museum would have spurred him to talk about his experiences - assuming he would have been willing to go. Some of the other visitors were of his generation and were telling their children and grandchildren about their experiences as they walked around. Fascinating ease dropping.
We wimped out and opted for the Trolley on the return trip. Got off at the Dam Square which was in full swing. Street performers, tourists and everywhere the destination sweet smell of pot. I don't think I'll ever smell it again without thinking "Amsterdam".
Street Life on the Dam
The Dam Square!
My Beloved went down for a nap and I hoofed it over to the The Booklet , a small used book store specializing in English language books. I found it purely by accident on my way to the Anne Frank Huis. It's a small, hole in the wall bookstore. I picked up some new books for the trip home and dropped off some I'd finished. The owner introduced me to Bookcrossing.com and allowed me to register my leave behinds on her computer. It will be interesting to see if they find new homes! I'd first heard about Bookcrossing via a member of the Besty Tacy Listserv, but it had never made off my "gotta look into this" list. Now it has and I'm glad! It's like Freecycle for books.
That evening we meet my cousin - actually he's the son of my cousin, who lives in Amsterdam for drinks. He does employment law for a large corporation. He took us to an old, style Amsterdam pub where we had much beer and he introduced My Beloved to Bitterballen.
The Dutch have some of the best "borrelhapjes" on the planet, which makes sense since the "borrel hur" is such an integral part of the culture. We tried to translate borrel hur into English but couldn't. It's so very Dutch.
I've also finally figured out why everyone speaks to me in English when I address them in Dutch. It's my accent- I speak Dutch with a distinct American accent so they assume I'm polite tourist who has mastered a few key phrases. I then answer them back in rapid fire Dutch, which causes them to do a double take and ask me just where I learned to speak the language.
It seems most of the Dutch speak English but few Americans speak Dutch.
Today was wear the shoe leather off our feet dayand our last full day in Amsterdam. We walked all the way to the WWII Dutch Resistance Museum, which is about 3 "zones" from the part of the city we are staying at. Of course, distances are all relative, and compared to Houston, this is a very compact city but it was still a bit of a trek. Made a stop at the flea market on Waterlooplein - this one I gather has been there for decades, if not centuries. Like so many modern day flea markets, it's not longer a thrift shoppers paradise, most of the vendors were selling new goods. Hundreds of T-shirts, caps, belts, bags and ugly made in far East at slave labor wages jewelry. You wouldn't not have known that you were in Holland, but for the fact the T-shirts all had Dutch themes. In Houston it would be cowboys and at the flea market in Paris it would be the Eiffel tower.
The War Resistance museum was fascinating, a very slick, multimedia presentation of what it was like in Holland during the Nazi Occupation. Blessedly the information placards were in Dutch and English. However, there were many original letters and scrapbooks, which were only in Dutch. Note to self - must learn to read Dutch!
I so wished that my Father was still alive, he lived through the occupation and perhaps the museum would have spurred him to talk about his experiences - assuming he would have been willing to go. Some of the other visitors were of his generation and were telling their children and grandchildren about their experiences as they walked around. Fascinating ease dropping.
We wimped out and opted for the Trolley on the return trip. Got off at the Dam Square which was in full swing. Street performers, tourists and everywhere the destination sweet smell of pot. I don't think I'll ever smell it again without thinking "Amsterdam".
Street Life on the Dam
The Dam Square!
My Beloved went down for a nap and I hoofed it over to the The Booklet , a small used book store specializing in English language books. I found it purely by accident on my way to the Anne Frank Huis. It's a small, hole in the wall bookstore. I picked up some new books for the trip home and dropped off some I'd finished. The owner introduced me to Bookcrossing.com and allowed me to register my leave behinds on her computer. It will be interesting to see if they find new homes! I'd first heard about Bookcrossing via a member of the Besty Tacy Listserv, but it had never made off my "gotta look into this" list. Now it has and I'm glad! It's like Freecycle for books.
That evening we meet my cousin - actually he's the son of my cousin, who lives in Amsterdam for drinks. He does employment law for a large corporation. He took us to an old, style Amsterdam pub where we had much beer and he introduced My Beloved to Bitterballen.
The Dutch have some of the best "borrelhapjes" on the planet, which makes sense since the "borrel hur" is such an integral part of the culture. We tried to translate borrel hur into English but couldn't. It's so very Dutch.
I've also finally figured out why everyone speaks to me in English when I address them in Dutch. It's my accent- I speak Dutch with a distinct American accent so they assume I'm polite tourist who has mastered a few key phrases. I then answer them back in rapid fire Dutch, which causes them to do a double take and ask me just where I learned to speak the language.
It seems most of the Dutch speak English but few Americans speak Dutch.
Wednesday, July 14, 2004
A Cultural Sort of Day
This was MUSEUM day with a capital M. Started out with the Rijksmuseum, which has only one wing open due to remodeling. It was rather pleasant actually, one didn't feel compelled to see THE ENTIRE PLACE, which I gather is quite large. They had pulled the "high points" and the rest is shut up or on tour. Many, many portraits on men in ruffs looking smug, as well as the NightWatch, which is overwhelming and some delightful landscapes. I found the still lifes to be amazing - such a use of light and color.
We took the Trolley Car. I like Trolley Cars - they show up at 10 minute intervals and take one just where one wants to go. And it is easy to find them- just look for the rails in the street!
We skipped the Van Gogh Museum since My Beloved had the beginnings of a sinus headache (not surprising since the weather did an 360 about face and it began to rain). Down she went for a nap while I trotted off the Amsterdam Historical Museum. Many, many, many more portraits of smug men in ruffs. One gets the impression that the city was run for many years by the Dutch version of a "Good Old Boys" club. The museum traced the history of the city from the 1200's to the present and was quite interesting - and thankfully all the placards were in Dutch and English. Very interactive and up to date.
Followed it was a splashy walk in the rain and a cup of coffee in a pastry shop.
We took the Trolley Car. I like Trolley Cars - they show up at 10 minute intervals and take one just where one wants to go. And it is easy to find them- just look for the rails in the street!
We skipped the Van Gogh Museum since My Beloved had the beginnings of a sinus headache (not surprising since the weather did an 360 about face and it began to rain). Down she went for a nap while I trotted off the Amsterdam Historical Museum. Many, many, many more portraits of smug men in ruffs. One gets the impression that the city was run for many years by the Dutch version of a "Good Old Boys" club. The museum traced the history of the city from the 1200's to the present and was quite interesting - and thankfully all the placards were in Dutch and English. Very interactive and up to date.
Followed it was a splashy walk in the rain and a cup of coffee in a pastry shop.
Tuesday, July 13, 2004
A Bookish sort of Day
This morning My Beloved opted for a taxi ride to the Amsterdam Harley Davidson store and I opted to stay behind and muse on bookstores and where to find them. And find them I did - 5 within easy walking distance of the hotel. I found 3 gems for my collection 2 by Noel Streatfeild & Lois Lenski and a Sue Barton novel. How they got here is beyond me but I will give them a happy new home in America.
Also went to Lush, which I'd heard raves about from my Canadian buddies on the Maud Hart Lovelace list - and it was indeed lush. I bought some of the fabled bath bombs and can't wait to try them.
The sun surprised us by coming out, so after lunch we went on the obligatory Canal Boat Ride, which was most interesting and much more detailed than I thought it would be. Even took us out into the Harbor. This city is rightly named "The Venice of the North".
Spoils from the Cigar Store!
My Beloved was done in by the walking - she mis-judged where the cigar shop was and we had do some back tracking so she napped while I hoofed it to the Anne Frank Huis. It was high on my list of "must sees" and was worth the wait in line. The book and the various films can't convey what it must have been like - seeing actual rooms was eye opening. So tiny and so hot and stuffy. Everything was very sparse & stark , it's not at all "touristed" up. People were quiet and respectful - there weren't as a many Americans as I thought there would be. Most of the visitors were Dutch. Of course there was one school group of teenagers - I think they were English or German who looked bored. There must be some teenage rule that says one must never show enthusiasm or emotion. I bought a new copy of the Diary in honor of the visit.
Also went to Lush, which I'd heard raves about from my Canadian buddies on the Maud Hart Lovelace list - and it was indeed lush. I bought some of the fabled bath bombs and can't wait to try them.
The sun surprised us by coming out, so after lunch we went on the obligatory Canal Boat Ride, which was most interesting and much more detailed than I thought it would be. Even took us out into the Harbor. This city is rightly named "The Venice of the North".
Spoils from the Cigar Store!
My Beloved was done in by the walking - she mis-judged where the cigar shop was and we had do some back tracking so she napped while I hoofed it to the Anne Frank Huis. It was high on my list of "must sees" and was worth the wait in line. The book and the various films can't convey what it must have been like - seeing actual rooms was eye opening. So tiny and so hot and stuffy. Everything was very sparse & stark , it's not at all "touristed" up. People were quiet and respectful - there weren't as a many Americans as I thought there would be. Most of the visitors were Dutch. Of course there was one school group of teenagers - I think they were English or German who looked bored. There must be some teenage rule that says one must never show enthusiasm or emotion. I bought a new copy of the Diary in honor of the visit.
That evening we went to the "Rosse Buurt" -the Red Light District. Like pot, sex is legal in Amsterdam. However, I found the area very depressing. It was seedy and down at the heels with a very surreal atmosphere. Most of the women appeared to be only going through the motions to attract customers and had no more animation than one of the robot figures at Disneyworld.
Comic relief was provided by yet another Japanese tour leader, who came shuffling into one of the sex shops with his group in tow. The reeked of whiskey and looked oddly naked without their cameras (photography is forbidden). They got positively big eyed at the sight of all the toys and we quickly exited stage right.
Monday, July 12, 2004
Amsterdam the Groot Staat
Today we started the last leg of our journey - 4 days in Amsterdam - we took the train from Eindhoven after having lunch with my aunt and uncle on my father's side who had driven down to pick up my mother for a visit. I do so like the Dutch trains - the schedule is better than Houston's busses. Just climb aboard and ride in comfort, with room to spread out till you get to your destination. No lines, no cramped seat with your knees in your neck because the guy in front of you has his seat back, no metal detectors, no feeling like cattle being herded through the doors. The Centraal Station had a Victorian feel to it - tall, brick and looming with lots of carvings.
We are staying at the Ambassade Hotel. This time around we are in the heart of the tourist section The Heren Gracht- that wasn't the case in Paris. Old hotel with modern amenities, which encompasses about 10 old houses. Rabbit warren of corridors with twisty, narrow staircases. The staircases result on a killer workout on ones calves - I am still feeling the effects of climbing the ones to the top of the Arch de Trioumph in Paris.
Took our customary introductory walk and had dinner at Moders, a restaurant serving old fashioned Dutch food. I introduced My Beloved to Stamppot, which she loved - figured she would since it's basically mashed potatoes and sausage - her favorite comfort food.
We are staying at the Ambassade Hotel. This time around we are in the heart of the tourist section The Heren Gracht- that wasn't the case in Paris. Old hotel with modern amenities, which encompasses about 10 old houses. Rabbit warren of corridors with twisty, narrow staircases. The staircases result on a killer workout on ones calves - I am still feeling the effects of climbing the ones to the top of the Arch de Trioumph in Paris.
Took our customary introductory walk and had dinner at Moders, a restaurant serving old fashioned Dutch food. I introduced My Beloved to Stamppot, which she loved - figured she would since it's basically mashed potatoes and sausage - her favorite comfort food.
Sunday, July 11, 2004
More Than 8 Cousins
The much awaited Family Reunion has come and gone and a wild success it was too. Given that in the states a reunion consists of my mother, brother, his lady, my sister, her husband and son and My Beloved and our girls, it was a bit intimidating to attend a gathering with 2 aunts, 3 uncles, 8 cousins and the respective spouses and children of said cousins. Not to mention my own brother & mother who were also there. Everyone found it most amusing that we all live in America, yet choose to meet in Holland. Fits in well with our family pattern which is to spread out and visit the world.
My Beloved, Mother & Cousin
Oddly enough (or maybe that's normal, what do I know about family reunions?) , there was no strangeness at all. We swapped family stories, looked for family features- I have a cousin who is the spitting image of my father and of course had multiple wine and toasts. The ages ranged from 2 - the son of my one cousins, to 83 - my Mother and her twin sister who are the family matriarchs. The guests came from all over Holland, America and Brazil (a cousin and his family who are about to move back to Holland after 10 years abroad). My uncle provided everyone with a copy of the Helfrich Family history which he'd just finished. I have copies to take home to my girls - my uncle in Australia kindly translated it into English for the English speaking branches of the family.
The Family Book
The weather surprised us all by cooperating and we had blue skies and sunshine, most unusual for Holland which is noted for chilly rain. The setting was the picture perfect garden of one of my cousins - grass so green it belonged on a golf course and brilliant flowers. One nice side effect of all the rain is the lovely flower gardens that are everywhere.
Zimmerman Family Group
Good food, good conversation, good fun, what more can one ask for?
The Entire Clan!
My Beloved, Mother & Cousin
Oddly enough (or maybe that's normal, what do I know about family reunions?) , there was no strangeness at all. We swapped family stories, looked for family features- I have a cousin who is the spitting image of my father and of course had multiple wine and toasts. The ages ranged from 2 - the son of my one cousins, to 83 - my Mother and her twin sister who are the family matriarchs. The guests came from all over Holland, America and Brazil (a cousin and his family who are about to move back to Holland after 10 years abroad). My uncle provided everyone with a copy of the Helfrich Family history which he'd just finished. I have copies to take home to my girls - my uncle in Australia kindly translated it into English for the English speaking branches of the family.
The Family Book
The weather surprised us all by cooperating and we had blue skies and sunshine, most unusual for Holland which is noted for chilly rain. The setting was the picture perfect garden of one of my cousins - grass so green it belonged on a golf course and brilliant flowers. One nice side effect of all the rain is the lovely flower gardens that are everywhere.
Zimmerman Family Group
Good food, good conversation, good fun, what more can one ask for?
The Entire Clan!
Friday, July 09, 2004
Back to the MotherLand
We've migrated from France to Holland. Took the train and we have seen the light - it's so civilized. On the train to Brussels we were severed breakfast - crossiants, coffee with real cream, fresh cheese, fresh cherries, pastry and real butter. On real dinnerware with actual metal silverware. No paper, no plastic, no fake food.
We changed trains in Brussels and Lana foiled a pickpocket. He offered to help with the luggage and then she felt his hand heading toward her pocket. luckily all her documents were firmly zippered up in the many pockets of The Super Tourist Vest. She spun around and glaredat him and he too off in one direction and the train took off in the other. Arrived in The Hague (Den Haag) without any further incident till we tried to connect with my relations. That involved a series of Laurel and Hardy incidents, turning a Jaqaur into a clown car, torrential rain and miscoummincations & lost telephones that would have made a perfect plot for a Beany Malone novel. However, we gathered (once we connected with my cousins and brother) that this happens all the time so we all had some wine and good laugh.
Relaxing in the Midst of Confusion
We did enjoy the roses in Westbrook Park with my mother and her twin sister (till the rain started) . My brother was also in The Hauge as a judge for a rose contest which was held there.
Mother & I and the Roses
Love among the Blooms!
The Roses & The Sun before the Storm!
Twins Among the Roses
The following day we slept late (to recover from Paris) and then went forth on the street car to see a bit of the city. Wandered about, admired the buildings, had coffee and lunch and walked on the beach at Scheveningen - the same beach I used to play on as a child.
Enjoying the Beach
Having never spend much time with cousins, since I haven't any in the US I'm finding it very novel to visit with people my own age whom are relations. Tomorrow is the big family do, with 40 something people - all of whom are related to me. I hope My Beloved isn't overwhelmed.
What I do when My Beloved is being Girl Photographer!
We changed trains in Brussels and Lana foiled a pickpocket. He offered to help with the luggage and then she felt his hand heading toward her pocket. luckily all her documents were firmly zippered up in the many pockets of The Super Tourist Vest. She spun around and glaredat him and he too off in one direction and the train took off in the other. Arrived in The Hague (Den Haag) without any further incident till we tried to connect with my relations. That involved a series of Laurel and Hardy incidents, turning a Jaqaur into a clown car, torrential rain and miscoummincations & lost telephones that would have made a perfect plot for a Beany Malone novel. However, we gathered (once we connected with my cousins and brother) that this happens all the time so we all had some wine and good laugh.
Relaxing in the Midst of Confusion
We did enjoy the roses in Westbrook Park with my mother and her twin sister (till the rain started) . My brother was also in The Hauge as a judge for a rose contest which was held there.
Mother & I and the Roses
Love among the Blooms!
The Roses & The Sun before the Storm!
Twins Among the Roses
The following day we slept late (to recover from Paris) and then went forth on the street car to see a bit of the city. Wandered about, admired the buildings, had coffee and lunch and walked on the beach at Scheveningen - the same beach I used to play on as a child.
Enjoying the Beach
Having never spend much time with cousins, since I haven't any in the US I'm finding it very novel to visit with people my own age whom are relations. Tomorrow is the big family do, with 40 something people - all of whom are related to me. I hope My Beloved isn't overwhelmed.
What I do when My Beloved is being Girl Photographer!
Wednesday, July 07, 2004
But We'll Always Have Paris....
Once again we had Paris in the rain - and some serious rain it was too. The morning cry was "Eiffel Tower or bust" - we couldn't leave Paris without seeing it. In fact, I am sure there is a law that says all first time tourists MUST see it or they can't leave the city. And it is BIG - the pictures give one no hint as to how immense it really is. It was damp and wet, but the streetside markets had umbrellas for sale - 14 Euros later we were all set to brave the weather. While we encountered the entire population of Japan at the Louvre, every British teenager appeared to be at the Eiffel Tower. Being more or less 16 years of age they all had to squeal, rough-house, push and of course talk constantly on their cell phones. A bit to much humanity for me, but the view at the top made up for it. 360 degrees worth of Paris, a wet, grey, chilly Paris but it was indeed Paris. My beloved braved the gift shop while I braved the heights.
High atop the Eiffel Tower
Down we came and headed toward Napoleonic tomb in the Dome Church - on foot. Hiked through a park and took some time to enjoy watching the dogs at play. Some of our favorite experiences in Paris haven't come from the Guide Books. None of our meals have come from the guide books, we've just stumbled into cafes that look promising and we've yet to be disappointed.
Buy My Sweet Lavendar!
The Tomb and Church were overwhelming- much, gilt, stained glass and statuary. It was not nearly as crowded and the people were respectful & quiet. Again, major frustration set in at not being able to read the placards. I feel so ignorant for not knowing any French - and it's also very tiring.
The skies opened, we got wet yet found a Taxi - My Beloved has taxi gris gris just like she has parking space gris gris, so we headed home to dry off. Normally we used the Metro but when it's raining a taxi is a nice luxury.
My Beloved took a nap, I headed for the Paris City museum, The Musee Carnavalet which isn't far from our Hotel. Again, I could not fully appreciate it, since everything was in French, but I had a fine time wandering around looking at the facilities. It is housed in a 16th century town house. I kept thinking of Calico Captive, one of my favorite books which is set in Quebec, Canada in the 1600s, and some of homes Marian Willard encountered must of been like this home. '
Went back to the hotel via The Place Des Vosges, a square of lovely, symmetrical mansions built in the 17th century. Very peaceful, looking very much locked in time.
My Beloved took a nap, and so was fresh and ready to attempt the Arc de Triomphe . We got very brave and took the bus, so we could see a bit more of the city. Again, like the Eiffel Tower it was BIG - much bigger than it looks in the pictures. I climbed all the way to the top - another killer spiral staircase but the view was worth it. Almost better than the Eiffel Tower since the streets around the Arch are like spokes of the wheel. Afterwards, we opted for a taxi back to the hotel and went down The Champs Elysees, which was a major disappointed. McDonalds, The Gap, Virgin Records...Nothing but major American chains. Not at all French - a sad commentary on how the American brands are taking over the world.
High atop the Eiffel Tower
Down we came and headed toward Napoleonic tomb in the Dome Church - on foot. Hiked through a park and took some time to enjoy watching the dogs at play. Some of our favorite experiences in Paris haven't come from the Guide Books. None of our meals have come from the guide books, we've just stumbled into cafes that look promising and we've yet to be disappointed.
Buy My Sweet Lavendar!
The Tomb and Church were overwhelming- much, gilt, stained glass and statuary. It was not nearly as crowded and the people were respectful & quiet. Again, major frustration set in at not being able to read the placards. I feel so ignorant for not knowing any French - and it's also very tiring.
The skies opened, we got wet yet found a Taxi - My Beloved has taxi gris gris just like she has parking space gris gris, so we headed home to dry off. Normally we used the Metro but when it's raining a taxi is a nice luxury.
My Beloved took a nap, I headed for the Paris City museum, The Musee Carnavalet which isn't far from our Hotel. Again, I could not fully appreciate it, since everything was in French, but I had a fine time wandering around looking at the facilities. It is housed in a 16th century town house. I kept thinking of Calico Captive, one of my favorite books which is set in Quebec, Canada in the 1600s, and some of homes Marian Willard encountered must of been like this home. '
Went back to the hotel via The Place Des Vosges, a square of lovely, symmetrical mansions built in the 17th century. Very peaceful, looking very much locked in time.
My Beloved took a nap, and so was fresh and ready to attempt the Arc de Triomphe . We got very brave and took the bus, so we could see a bit more of the city. Again, like the Eiffel Tower it was BIG - much bigger than it looks in the pictures. I climbed all the way to the top - another killer spiral staircase but the view was worth it. Almost better than the Eiffel Tower since the streets around the Arch are like spokes of the wheel. Afterwards, we opted for a taxi back to the hotel and went down The Champs Elysees, which was a major disappointed. McDonalds, The Gap, Virgin Records...Nothing but major American chains. Not at all French - a sad commentary on how the American brands are taking over the world.
Tuesday, July 06, 2004
Bring Out Your Dead
We communed with the dead today -all 6 million of them in the Catacombs under Montparnasse. They were moved from older cemetaries in the 1700s. Very eerie yet strangely peaceful. The Resistance operated out of them during WWII and it was easy to see why. They must go on for miles and miles; twisty, dark, shadowdy corridors, all lined with bones and skulls.
We wanted to go to the top of the tallest building- Tour Montparnasse (very much an ugly glass rectangle) but we got lost. Thus we had to hoof it to the catacombs before they closed. It is, very easy I've discovered to get lost in Paris. There is no grid, the streets wiggle and twist and keep changing their names. The first couple of times it happened, I kept trying to figure out just where I'd made a wrong turn. However, that proved to be extremely futile and a great waste of time. Paris streets have much in common with a 12 step program, you just have to accept the fact that you will be confused & lost , figure out where you are and move on from there. And accept the interesting things you find along the way.
Also on the docket was a visit to Tea and Tattered Pages, an English Language used bookstore, the BMW shop and Hein Gericke , My Beloved's Holy Grail of motorcycle clothing. She bought waterproof boots and is a happy camper. Her Harley Boots, while long on style are very weak when it comes to keeping ones feet dry.
We'd hoped to explore another area of Paris tonight but age and aching knees have set in. In some ways, Paris is very much for the young!
We wanted to go to the top of the tallest building- Tour Montparnasse (very much an ugly glass rectangle) but we got lost. Thus we had to hoof it to the catacombs before they closed. It is, very easy I've discovered to get lost in Paris. There is no grid, the streets wiggle and twist and keep changing their names. The first couple of times it happened, I kept trying to figure out just where I'd made a wrong turn. However, that proved to be extremely futile and a great waste of time. Paris streets have much in common with a 12 step program, you just have to accept the fact that you will be confused & lost , figure out where you are and move on from there. And accept the interesting things you find along the way.
Also on the docket was a visit to Tea and Tattered Pages, an English Language used bookstore, the BMW shop and Hein Gericke , My Beloved's Holy Grail of motorcycle clothing. She bought waterproof boots and is a happy camper. Her Harley Boots, while long on style are very weak when it comes to keeping ones feet dry.
We'd hoped to explore another area of Paris tonight but age and aching knees have set in. In some ways, Paris is very much for the young!
Monday, July 05, 2004
Cultural Overload
Attempted The Louvre today, along with the entire population of Akron, Ohio and at least a goodly percentage of the population of Japan. In fact this would be an excellent time to visit Japan; since everyone who lives there appears to be in Paris. The tour guides were all very busy - they manage their brood by holding up umbrellas or a folded map and the group scrurries after them like well trained lemmings. The Akron, Ohio contingent consisted mostly of high schoolers getting an obligatory dose of "culture" which most of them, given the amount of giggling and cell phone usage that went on did not appreciate at all. The males had a bovine air about them -- what with their slack jaws, semi open mouths, glazed eyes and constant gum chomping. The girls all wore tight pants and crop tops, all the better to show off their belly button rings.
Everything and everyone said the Louvre was overwhelming and it is. It is an art maze, best experienced in very small doses. We concentrated on the Greek statuary. The rest will have to wait for another visit.
Besty and the Great World has a chapter set in Paris, so of course I had to do the pilgrimadge. That meant a visit to Pont Neuf, where Henry IV showed Besty a way to reconnect with her Joe.
At the Louvre I insisted on viewing the statue of The Winged Victory - another Betsty Tacy tie in! My Beloved was tolerant - of course it helped that I went with her to a cigar store!
Winged Victory (Betsy-Tacy Tie In)
Henri IV - Betsy & The Great World - and Me!
Henri IV (another BT Tie-In)
The afternoon was spent on Medieval architecture - Norte Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. Stunning enough to make one consider converting, were it not for the position of the church on a few crucial issues. Gothic architecture is supposed to make one awe struck and inspired and it did just that.
We were total tourists that evening - a dinner cruise on The Seine. Touristy or not, it was still great fun. One does not appreciate the bridges unless one sails under them. My favorite part was the return trip - the banks were lined with young people, talking, dancing, singing and romancing. It was like watching a floating floor show. They all looked so young, carefree and love - and in Paris on a clear, cool July night, how else could they be?
Everything and everyone said the Louvre was overwhelming and it is. It is an art maze, best experienced in very small doses. We concentrated on the Greek statuary. The rest will have to wait for another visit.
Besty and the Great World has a chapter set in Paris, so of course I had to do the pilgrimadge. That meant a visit to Pont Neuf, where Henry IV showed Besty a way to reconnect with her Joe.
At the Louvre I insisted on viewing the statue of The Winged Victory - another Betsty Tacy tie in! My Beloved was tolerant - of course it helped that I went with her to a cigar store!
Winged Victory (Betsy-Tacy Tie In)
Henri IV - Betsy & The Great World - and Me!
Henri IV (another BT Tie-In)
The afternoon was spent on Medieval architecture - Norte Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. Stunning enough to make one consider converting, were it not for the position of the church on a few crucial issues. Gothic architecture is supposed to make one awe struck and inspired and it did just that.
We were total tourists that evening - a dinner cruise on The Seine. Touristy or not, it was still great fun. One does not appreciate the bridges unless one sails under them. My favorite part was the return trip - the banks were lined with young people, talking, dancing, singing and romancing. It was like watching a floating floor show. They all looked so young, carefree and love - and in Paris on a clear, cool July night, how else could they be?
Sunday, July 04, 2004
Paris when it rains
We are in Paris, where I am coping not very well with a French Keyboard, which will make the spelling worse than usual. We arrived after an all day traintrip from Innsbruck.
Planning the Paris Trip
Much French countryside - Impressionist paintings flying past the windows of the train;
Played hotel roulette but ended up in a much nicer one than planned- The Hotel Villa Beaumarchais.
We are close to Bastille Square , in what's become a trendy part of Paris called The Marais. There are lots of shops and resterants and it's more residential than tourist filled. Luckly there is an internet cafe not far from the hotel - run by Koreans who speak little English but we're coping.
Today was chill day, kick back; sleep till 10 and recover day. We took a morning walk and found a market, complete with street preformers. The food booths took my breath away.
Dancers at the French Market Lana napped. I took several long walks and figured out the French laundermat. That was an adventure. This city is everything everyone says it is and more: It is New York to the 10th power; even in the rain.
Magic, magic, magic
Planning the Paris Trip
Much French countryside - Impressionist paintings flying past the windows of the train;
Played hotel roulette but ended up in a much nicer one than planned- The Hotel Villa Beaumarchais.
We are close to Bastille Square , in what's become a trendy part of Paris called The Marais. There are lots of shops and resterants and it's more residential than tourist filled. Luckly there is an internet cafe not far from the hotel - run by Koreans who speak little English but we're coping.
Today was chill day, kick back; sleep till 10 and recover day. We took a morning walk and found a market, complete with street preformers. The food booths took my breath away.
Dancers at the French Market
Lana napped. I took several long walks and figured out the French laundermat. That was an adventure. This city is everything everyone says it is and more: It is New York to the 10th power; even in the rain.
Magic, magic, magic
Friday, July 02, 2004
The Conversion is complete
Today we both rode on BMWs, wearing full face helments. We still don't have the Gore-Tex riding outfits that are de-reiguer on a BMW, but I think that's coming in the very near future.
This was the day our weather luck ran out -though given we had almost 4 days of postcard weather, we really have nothing to fuss about. When we get back to Houston we will be thinking longingly of 50 degree weather and mountain tops sprinkled with snow banks.
Snow in July!
It started out gray and drizzley so intrepid travelors that we are, we took off. Destination was a private road, full of hair pins with a lake on top that's surrounded by mountains. We'll have to take the tourist brochure's word on the latter since the top of said mountain was shrouded in fog.
We shared the roads with cows- the most brazen cows I have ever seen! They had no fear what so ever and would just stand in the road daring us to run them over.
Fortified with coffe and most excellent pastry we started down the mountain and then the torrent hit. It was wet and it was cold and we all decided to cut a portion of the ride and head for lunch. And a very long and leisurily lunch it was too, since we needed to warm up and dry out.
My High Maintence beloved had wet feet and leaky boots so our ever resoureful guide zipped over to the corner store and got her some dry socks and the also ever resourceful Mr. BMW produced some plastic bags to help keep said socks dry. After stuffing her feet back into her boots - a feat that took both our efforts we were finally ready to head for home.
Much to our amayment, just as we were heading up the final mountain the sun came out and we rode home blessed by blue skies. A most excellent ending to an unforgettable week.
Cold & Wet - but Happy!
This was the day our weather luck ran out -though given we had almost 4 days of postcard weather, we really have nothing to fuss about. When we get back to Houston we will be thinking longingly of 50 degree weather and mountain tops sprinkled with snow banks.
Snow in July!
It started out gray and drizzley so intrepid travelors that we are, we took off. Destination was a private road, full of hair pins with a lake on top that's surrounded by mountains. We'll have to take the tourist brochure's word on the latter since the top of said mountain was shrouded in fog.
We shared the roads with cows- the most brazen cows I have ever seen! They had no fear what so ever and would just stand in the road daring us to run them over.
Fortified with coffe and most excellent pastry we started down the mountain and then the torrent hit. It was wet and it was cold and we all decided to cut a portion of the ride and head for lunch. And a very long and leisurily lunch it was too, since we needed to warm up and dry out.
My High Maintence beloved had wet feet and leaky boots so our ever resoureful guide zipped over to the corner store and got her some dry socks and the also ever resourceful Mr. BMW produced some plastic bags to help keep said socks dry. After stuffing her feet back into her boots - a feat that took both our efforts we were finally ready to head for home.
Much to our amayment, just as we were heading up the final mountain the sun came out and we rode home blessed by blue skies. A most excellent ending to an unforgettable week.
Cold & Wet - but Happy!
Thursday, July 01, 2004
Deeper into the Dark Side
Today the conversion continued - My Beloved bought a full face helmet. In fact, she asked that we stop at a BMW shop so she could buy one. It is silver, matches her hair and the BMW she's currently riding.
However, she did get to visit a Harley Davidson shopin Bolzano, Italy - it began to sprinkle and she'd forgetten her rain gear. Good thing she found a jacket - no sooner did she put it on than the sky opened up. Cold, hard, driving rain for 2 hours. Took a lot of the fun out of the anticapted crossing of the Brennerpass. The ran also resulted in our abandoning the scenic mountain roads for the more direct autoban. Discovered that waterproof pants are not always waterproof. The question of the night is wether or not boots can dry if propped up on a towel rack. It is an electrically warmed towel racks so there we have our fingers crossed.
Prior to that the weather was perfect - and the scenery even more so. Multiple mountain passes all with the requiest twisties and hairpins. One still had snow once we reached the top - and fog. Waterfalls abounded, saw some mountain antelopes and a cow with a death wish. Went over the Timmelsjoch, which is only open during the summer (otherwise the snow is to high). We headed down via the Passeier Tal and then to Merano, Italy.
Ate lunch in a resterant that has been serving food since 1600 and something-it's linked to Andreas Hofer, a local hero. Indulged in another cheese plate - in fact I've been non stop indulging in cheese since I got here!
Great Place to Eat!
However, she did get to visit a Harley Davidson shopin Bolzano, Italy - it began to sprinkle and she'd forgetten her rain gear. Good thing she found a jacket - no sooner did she put it on than the sky opened up. Cold, hard, driving rain for 2 hours. Took a lot of the fun out of the anticapted crossing of the Brennerpass. The ran also resulted in our abandoning the scenic mountain roads for the more direct autoban. Discovered that waterproof pants are not always waterproof. The question of the night is wether or not boots can dry if propped up on a towel rack. It is an electrically warmed towel racks so there we have our fingers crossed.
Prior to that the weather was perfect - and the scenery even more so. Multiple mountain passes all with the requiest twisties and hairpins. One still had snow once we reached the top - and fog. Waterfalls abounded, saw some mountain antelopes and a cow with a death wish. Went over the Timmelsjoch, which is only open during the summer (otherwise the snow is to high). We headed down via the Passeier Tal and then to Merano, Italy.
Ate lunch in a resterant that has been serving food since 1600 and something-it's linked to Andreas Hofer, a local hero. Indulged in another cheese plate - in fact I've been non stop indulging in cheese since I got here!
Great Place to Eat!
Wednesday, June 30, 2004
My Beloved Goes to the Dark Side
Would you believe blue skies, sunshine and it is hot here! The weather is picture postcard. This was our longest riding day, 400 Kilometers - we went from Austria to Italy, to Switzerland and back to Austria again. We reached Italy, and our first stop was the vanished town of Graun , which was flooded in 1949 when the lake was dammed. Only the church steeple rises above the water. My Beloved was immortality on film (or on pixels) standing beside the her new love - a BMW motorcycle.
My Beloved On The Dark Side!
Lunch was at Glurns, a medieval town which is the smallest in Italy. It is still walled and parts of the moat remain. Had Spaghetti Carbonara, best I've ever tasted.
After lunch it was time to tackle the the Passo Dello Stelvio , third highest pass in the alps and the highest pass in Italy. It is so special it has its own webcam. 48 hair pin switchbacks and snow on the top. And yes, again we encountered those ever so fit bicycle riders who rode to the top on leg power. How do they do it???
48 Switchbacks!
Again, I rode with the tour guide and learned the passenger more or less rides hands free. You brace yourself against the gas tank with one hand, hold on to the side handle with your other and use your stomach muscles for balance. It's more of a work out than 100 sit ups. No wonder they call Alpine Motorcycle riding a sport! Holding on to the driver is not a good idea, since the passengers weight pushes him into the gas tank on the downhill slopes. I got the courage award for not only attempting this feat, but making it both up and down the mountain!
We crossed into Switzerland via the second longest tunnel in the world. Tomorrow My Beloved is buying a full face helmet and actually said 'I only want to drive a BMW for the rest of the tour". Everyone else cheered and one of the members, who owns a BMW dealership in Altanta has offered her a good deal on her first BMW.
The final stop was Livigno, a duty free and very much touristed area between Switzerland and Italy. The surrounding area was lovely, the town which was check by jowl with hotels and arun with traffic was not so. Came back via the Ofenpass. More switchbacks, meadows, mountain waterfalls, rocky peaks and alpine meadows.
I have been on a bike for 11 hours, had a half a liter of wheat beer on tap, half a liter of white wine and my head is spinning.
To be continued.......
Our tour guide is Austrian, a delightful gentleman with much riding and touring experience. This is his full time job and he gets to travel the world - nice work if you can get it. All the riders are American - Mr. & Mrs. BMW, who have been invaluable when it comes to riding tail and giving lessons. Mr. BMW is My Beloved's twin, separated at birth. A friendly, never meet a stranger, always willing to help guy who does Iron Butt rides in his spare time. His wife is bit quieter- I think she is the earth sign to his fire sign, and is also an expert rider, she was one of 3 women riding her own bike.
Bob & Lynda - Mr. & Mrs. BMW
We encountered kindred spirits in a couple from Duluth, Minn. Having done the the California Pacific Coast Highway ride, they were the only Edelweiss tour veterans among us. Seasoned travelers, they gave us lots of tips of things to see in Paris. We hope to meet up with them for another tour when time and budgets allow. They weren't familiar with my beloved Minnesota tomes, the Betsy-Tacy books but I forgave them that small omission!
My Beloved and Her Kindred Spirits.
We've also a brother & sister and their respective spouses, a couple from Wisconsin, who are renowned for their tattoos and one solo rider from Florida. A very compatible and friendly group.
My Beloved On The Dark Side!
Lunch was at Glurns, a medieval town which is the smallest in Italy. It is still walled and parts of the moat remain. Had Spaghetti Carbonara, best I've ever tasted.
After lunch it was time to tackle the the Passo Dello Stelvio , third highest pass in the alps and the highest pass in Italy. It is so special it has its own webcam. 48 hair pin switchbacks and snow on the top. And yes, again we encountered those ever so fit bicycle riders who rode to the top on leg power. How do they do it???
48 Switchbacks!
Again, I rode with the tour guide and learned the passenger more or less rides hands free. You brace yourself against the gas tank with one hand, hold on to the side handle with your other and use your stomach muscles for balance. It's more of a work out than 100 sit ups. No wonder they call Alpine Motorcycle riding a sport! Holding on to the driver is not a good idea, since the passengers weight pushes him into the gas tank on the downhill slopes. I got the courage award for not only attempting this feat, but making it both up and down the mountain!
We crossed into Switzerland via the second longest tunnel in the world. Tomorrow My Beloved is buying a full face helmet and actually said 'I only want to drive a BMW for the rest of the tour". Everyone else cheered and one of the members, who owns a BMW dealership in Altanta has offered her a good deal on her first BMW.
The final stop was Livigno, a duty free and very much touristed area between Switzerland and Italy. The surrounding area was lovely, the town which was check by jowl with hotels and arun with traffic was not so. Came back via the Ofenpass. More switchbacks, meadows, mountain waterfalls, rocky peaks and alpine meadows.
I have been on a bike for 11 hours, had a half a liter of wheat beer on tap, half a liter of white wine and my head is spinning.
To be continued.......
Our tour guide is Austrian, a delightful gentleman with much riding and touring experience. This is his full time job and he gets to travel the world - nice work if you can get it. All the riders are American - Mr. & Mrs. BMW, who have been invaluable when it comes to riding tail and giving lessons. Mr. BMW is My Beloved's twin, separated at birth. A friendly, never meet a stranger, always willing to help guy who does Iron Butt rides in his spare time. His wife is bit quieter- I think she is the earth sign to his fire sign, and is also an expert rider, she was one of 3 women riding her own bike.
Bob & Lynda - Mr. & Mrs. BMW
We encountered kindred spirits in a couple from Duluth, Minn. Having done the the California Pacific Coast Highway ride, they were the only Edelweiss tour veterans among us. Seasoned travelers, they gave us lots of tips of things to see in Paris. We hope to meet up with them for another tour when time and budgets allow. They weren't familiar with my beloved Minnesota tomes, the Betsy-Tacy books but I forgave them that small omission!
My Beloved and Her Kindred Spirits.
We've also a brother & sister and their respective spouses, a couple from Wisconsin, who are renowned for their tattoos and one solo rider from Florida. A very compatible and friendly group.
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